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rikky.c View Drop Down
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    Posted: 02 April 2008 at 5:07pm
Hello,Anyone able to give me some idea has to how long it could take to stop water seeping through on my st?Has been out of the water for around 3 years and was slipped last saturday,It takes on around 8 inches over night,Thanks,Rick.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AndyS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 April 2008 at 1:22am

Rikky.C

I am sorry to hear that she is still taking in so much water. Have you identified any specific locations where the water is coming in or is it a general flow. Do you have any photos?

Orignally the tightness of the hull was provided by a layer doped or oiled fabric, depending on the builder with the planks taking up as more of a secondary measure. Remember that your bottom planks are probably around +-1/4" thick edge butted, so there is no space for traditional caulking and any plank sealing relies on a good and tight edge fit, especially at the diagonal seam crossings. On the sides the single diagonal sides is sealed by the screw or sealing batton, which often has a light bedding of white lead as a sealing barrier.

The time taken to 'take up' will depend on several factors; Condition of timbers and amount of shrinkage during storage; Dryness during storage and coatings/methods applied to the planking.

Aged and repeatedly moisture cycled timbers can shrink back quite a bit if they have a degree of deterioration in them and if they have been very dry eg around 12%  mc or lower then they can have difficulty taking up fully to their original section.

Being very dry can also cause some damage to the integrity as it the shrunk planks will pull accross each other their fastenings and the remaining internal calico membrane, so you need to watch out for these areas.

Other areas to check are in the region of any lifting strop locations as this can cause damage which is not easily visible but affects the hull integrity. Eg. Even if it is pulling on the chine rubber mounting bolts and setting back into position, the bolts have still been pulled in their bores and can therefore leak.

The addition of coatings will also tend to seal up the planks and arrest their ability to take up water. Most modern coatings are much more impermeable than the older coatings.

'The Wood Wizard' has slipped more of these boats, in various conditions and repair systems than most so he may be able to offer some comment and advise for you too.

Best regards AndyS 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rikky.c Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 April 2008 at 7:47pm

Hi andy,Thanks for the reply,Went up to the boat this afternoon and it seems to have slowed down as there was just over 4 inches after leaving it for around 24 hours so fingers crossed it might be sealing up?got loads of photos but they are  done on a real camera.Its the one on page 2 of the yardarm though looking a lot better than it did then?Thanks,Rick.



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rikky.c View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rikky.c Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 June 2009 at 9:37pm
Hi just a quick question,Should my ST be copper sheathed?Thanks,Rick.
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dgray View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dgray Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 June 2009 at 12:49am
I understand that only boats that were meant to operate in warmer climates ( Med etc) were fitted with copper sheathing to stop the wood boring critters like the toredo worm.
My BPB ST seems to have had no copper fitted.
Cheers
Don 
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rikky.c View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rikky.c Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 June 2009 at 8:10am
Hi don,Thanks for the info,Thats what i thought,strange really as i dont think it ever left the uk judging by the rot.How are you doing with yours?Thanks,Rick.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AndyS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 July 2009 at 10:58am
Some of the boats had Copper Napthanate applied, which may lead to some of the confusion.
I think that some of the Hong Kong vessels had copper sheathing added (may have been locally or to the locally built/repaired vessels), but to my knowledge none of the UK destined vessels had copper fitted by the BPBCo factory.
Andy
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ASR1255 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 July 2009 at 8:57pm
HELLO ALL ,
SPEAKING FROM EXPERIENCE ,AFTER MY OLD 200 CLASS WAS OUT OF THE WATER FOR AT LEAST 10 YEARS, ALL SHE NEEDED WAS THE CHINE BOLTS TIGHTENING . I HAD CAULKED THE BOTTOM WITH SIKAFLEX WHERE I COULD, BUT AFTER A WEEK OF BEING IN TIDAL WATERS SHE DID NOT LEAK APART FROM THE CHINE.  ANY WAY ALL THESE OLD GIRLS ARE DIFFERENT, SO GOOD LUCK AND DON'T DESPAIR THEY WERE BUILT TO FLOAT!
GOOD LUCK ANYHOW
STEVE
SAVE EM ALL
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rikky.c View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rikky.c Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 July 2009 at 10:16pm

Hi ,its defenatly thin copper and not the pretendy stuff,only asking about it as i am thinking of taking it off once its out of the water,as i dont think there would be any advantages in leaving it on?I was wondering if the marine craft unit could have put it on as they did a air sea rescue conversion to it in 1947?Any thoughts on that idea?Thanks,Rick.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rozm2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 July 2009 at 6:20pm
The copper sheathing will act as antifoul, no need to do it every year, hence some antifoul is copper based, it will also help the wood from rotting (not much but again, think of cuprinol, copper based and it stops rot (not when you've already got it mind)) I'd be tempted to re-instate it if possible, it all depends what's best with you and how you plan to use her!
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