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40’ ST for Sale

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dgray View Drop Down
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Joined: 24 November 2005
Location: United Kingdom
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dgray Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 July 2006 at 5:09pm
Hi Andy,
Sorry, my message was ambiguous. I meant to say,  how do I get the copper rivets out ( just in case there is an easy way that I haven't seen) -    I guess I drill through the heads.

I'll photo the switch panel later & put it up later when camera batteries are charged.
Don


Only a number, not even a name. How shall posterity hear of thy fame?
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AndyS View Drop Down
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Joined: 09 July 2006
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AndyS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 July 2006 at 7:36pm
Don

As I said the easiest and safest way to not mark the rest of the hull and to avoid spin off is to use tube cutter that is just smaller than the hammer fromed nail head. It locates over the dome and cuts away the edge of the hammer formed rivet head. this allows the nail to be driven out off the rove and through the hull if it is not bound up too much. I find that a concave ended parallel punch is best for this, but a rod or screwdriver can be used. 

The tube cutters are sold for cutting / drilling holes in sheet metal by cutting a ring rather than a hole that then distorts and rips up.

I have found this both quick and easy. Many people do not have a tool loike this and use and angle grinder to take the rivet head off, but this gets very hot and usually burns the wood, or they drill the head off. I have used both of these and drilling was only a moderate success if centre punched before drilling but I have had many spin offs and broken drill bits.

Currently I mainly use an adaptation of the tube cutters (which is also available in a range of small sizes) is the unscrew-ums from the USA. They are modified to carefully remove screws. They cut in the reverse direction in a battery drill on slow speed and have a split in them allowing them to be spread and grip as they cut down the screw head and outside of the shaft. The theory being that they grip and then unscrew the remainder of the screw.

But they are expensive, do not last very long, are best on countersunk screws and still require a bit of getting used to and time to clear them when they jam up with broken bits of screws.

I hope that this helps

AndyS
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