Sea Plane tenders

Thanks Clive/JohnK,

Good points, well made.  Reading as much as I can about the subject, it all seems a bit confusing.

If I rake out the seams and ply over, surely the seams is will provide path for water to trave into the bilges ( subject to bilge paint of course).

IF I had a D/D hull  with no anti foul  and  well painted  on the inside, surely the planking would be soaking and unable to dry out ( being immersed in the water).     I don't see the difference, me being a complete novice at this.

All advice gladly welcome.

Thanks





Edited by dgray

Thanks again Clive.  You're only up the road so, drop down and see the boats anytime (when you get a chance).

dgray wrote: Thanks Clive/JohnK, Good points, well made.  Reading as much as I can about the subject, it all seems a bit confusing. If I rake out the seams and ply over, surely the seams is will provide path for water to trave into the bilges ( subject to bilge paint of course). IF I had a D/D hull  with no anti foul  and  well painted  on the inside, surely the planking would be soaking and unable to dry out ( being immersed in the water).     I don't see the difference, me being a complete novice at this. All advice gladly welcome. Thanks

Good ventilation is key to keeping rot at bay.  I think the plywood is likely to bring more problems in the long term than it will solve in the short term. a sheet will not bend in two directions so will not sit flat on the hull, my cabin roof was hot moulded and a compound curve, to make a new one I used 3 inch wide strips of 1/8 ply, 3 layers, 90 degs around, youd have to do something similar to get it to lie on the hull, its not a clever repair on your type of hull.

There are special tools around for removing broken screws, get some of these and refasten her with silicon bronze screws, I beleive in most cases the people that built the boat new best. It a huge job to do and that's another factor that tells you its most likely the correct one!

Far too much movement in your hull of epoxy sheathing.

I think the 3mm ply will bend in 2 directions OK. I'll check again.
I was keen on ply as I could remove it at a later date without ruining the planking underneath ( as I would if I used  finreglass matting).

What I don't understand ( and I haven't explained well) is:-

If a wooden boat is bilge painted and painted/antifouled on the outside then water cannot get in  - or out.  The same with sheathing I'd have thought unless it gets trapped between the ply and the planking, you'd have no problems.   That said, you'd have the same problem on a triple diaginal hull as the outside layer is immersed in water and the timber can only dry out through the bilges.

In that case it looks as if  epoxying the existing planks and then building up the matting/epoxy is best as the epoxy is chemically bonded to the outer timber and leaves no gaps for the water to get in.

Obviously replanking the hull is best but that gets rid of most of the original timber and makes it into a renovation rather than a restoration.

Thanks everyone for the advice. I'll look at cascover and perhaps a dehumidifier....

Good point tramontana, but it's very fragile now  and long since given up being a waterproof membrane, sheathed or not.    Without the membrane, surely D/D boats not  sheathed will have the same problem as  the outer layer is waterproof  on one side ( paint/antifoul)  and the inner plank has  bilge paint on the other side.

Wouldn't that mean that water can be  trapped between the layers, sheathing or no?

Regards

Don